Tillbaks efter en tids datorproblem. Modemkapningar har sina sidor...en del roar sig kungligt!
Nåväl, är det någon här som har personlig erfarenhet av Lie Nielsens hyvlar och scrapers? De har ju även en variant med "Rodmakers Groove"
/A
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Handverktyg
Started By
Gäst_Anders Johannesson_*
, 2005 09 19, 20:36
13 replies to this topic
#2
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Mats Öberg
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Posted 19 Sep 2005, 21:14
Modemkapning......det låter dyrt! :-
Jag har Lie Nielsens sicklingshyvel och jag ångrar inte att jag köpte den. Jag tror att du blir nöjd om du slår till. :D
Hyvlarna vet jag inget om, men om de håller hög kvalitet enl. utsago.
Jag har Lie Nielsens sicklingshyvel och jag ångrar inte att jag köpte den. Jag tror att du blir nöjd om du slår till. :D
Hyvlarna vet jag inget om, men om de håller hög kvalitet enl. utsago.
"Wise men talk bacause they have something to say; Fools because they have to say something" - Plato
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#3
Gäst_Anders Johannesson_*
Gäst_Anders Johannesson_*
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Posted 21 Sep 2005, 21:24
Har du varianten med rodmakers groove? har bara sett den på bild, ser ut som om stålet går även på den icke nerfrästa delen av sulan. Hur funkar det i så fall?
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#4
Gäst_CCarlin_*
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Posted 22 Sep 2005, 01:18
Hi Anders,
I have two Lie-Nielsen planes with the rodmaker's groove and two without (plus a scraping plane). I have an adjustable mouth block plane with a standard .003" (.076mm) rodmaker's groove and a #3 bench plane with a .007" (.178mm) groove. The groove is milled out along the entire length of the plane's sole
The rodmaker's groove allows you to make shavings up to the depth of the groove without any fear of scraping the top of the planing form, which can damage the form and also quickly wear down the edge on the plane's blade.
There are 2 disadvantages to having the groove on your planes. First, if you set a plane with a standard groove to remove .003" of material, it'll take a very long time to plane a strip! Second, a grooved plane tends to lift strips slightly when planing, which can lead to undersized strips.
I actually use 2 planes for final planing. A non-grooved adjustable mouth block plane set at .007"-.010" for most of the material removal, then the grooved plane set at .001"-.002" for the final few passes. This solves the first disadvantage.
The solution to the second problem is to hold down the strip by running your gloved finger in front of the plane. This keeps the strip snug in the forms, and when you make a pass with the plane and no more material is removed, final dimensions have been reached. Simple!
I use my .007" grooved bench plane for planing splices on nodeless rods, or if I need to do some quick removal of a lot of material.
I also have a L/N scraping plane without the rodmaker's groove that I use to remove enamel. If I were to use it for finish planing, I'd probably get one with the groove to protect my planing forms and the blade's edge.
A good way to see if you like how the groove works is to put a few pieces of masking tape on the sides of a regular, non-grooved block plane and work with it for a while.
Hope this helps, and I hope I translated the question properly. :)
Chris
I have two Lie-Nielsen planes with the rodmaker's groove and two without (plus a scraping plane). I have an adjustable mouth block plane with a standard .003" (.076mm) rodmaker's groove and a #3 bench plane with a .007" (.178mm) groove. The groove is milled out along the entire length of the plane's sole
The rodmaker's groove allows you to make shavings up to the depth of the groove without any fear of scraping the top of the planing form, which can damage the form and also quickly wear down the edge on the plane's blade.
There are 2 disadvantages to having the groove on your planes. First, if you set a plane with a standard groove to remove .003" of material, it'll take a very long time to plane a strip! Second, a grooved plane tends to lift strips slightly when planing, which can lead to undersized strips.
I actually use 2 planes for final planing. A non-grooved adjustable mouth block plane set at .007"-.010" for most of the material removal, then the grooved plane set at .001"-.002" for the final few passes. This solves the first disadvantage.
The solution to the second problem is to hold down the strip by running your gloved finger in front of the plane. This keeps the strip snug in the forms, and when you make a pass with the plane and no more material is removed, final dimensions have been reached. Simple!
I use my .007" grooved bench plane for planing splices on nodeless rods, or if I need to do some quick removal of a lot of material.
I also have a L/N scraping plane without the rodmaker's groove that I use to remove enamel. If I were to use it for finish planing, I'd probably get one with the groove to protect my planing forms and the blade's edge.
A good way to see if you like how the groove works is to put a few pieces of masking tape on the sides of a regular, non-grooved block plane and work with it for a while.
Hope this helps, and I hope I translated the question properly. :)
Chris
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Mats Öberg
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Posted 22 Sep 2005, 15:30
Chris.
I´ve been looking at those nice L/N planes and found that maybe I just must have another one ;D.
Do you use the "rodmakers groove" planes frequently, I mean have you come to the point where you cannot "live without" them? Or would you do just as well with just your ordinary planes?
// Mats
I´ve been looking at those nice L/N planes and found that maybe I just must have another one ;D.
Do you use the "rodmakers groove" planes frequently, I mean have you come to the point where you cannot "live without" them? Or would you do just as well with just your ordinary planes?
// Mats
"Wise men talk bacause they have something to say; Fools because they have to say something" - Plato
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#6
Gäst_CCarlin_*
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Posted 22 Sep 2005, 17:31
I don't think I could live without my grooved L/N block plane. In fact, if it came down to getting rid of all of my other planes :o that would be the one that I'd keep.
It is always the plane I use for the final 10-20 passes on a strip. With it set at .001"-.002", the curls are so thin they are translucent, the planing surface is glass-smooth and the top of my forms look like new. Well, almost like new, I have nicked them a few times with my non-grooved plane. ::)
It is always the plane I use for the final 10-20 passes on a strip. With it set at .001"-.002", the curls are so thin they are translucent, the planing surface is glass-smooth and the top of my forms look like new. Well, almost like new, I have nicked them a few times with my non-grooved plane. ::)
#7
Gäst_MikeBrooks_*
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Posted 22 Sep 2005, 19:04
I have three of the L/N planes. I've used other ones and the steel isn't as good, they don't hold adjustments nearly as well. The groved plane, by the way, L/N makes especially for bamboo rod makers. When Mats is here visiting he can buy them. They are sold at the local WoodCraft store. I think the price is around $175
...and Hi Chris and Mats!
...and Hi Chris and Mats!
#8
Gäst_Anders Johannesson_*
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Posted 22 Sep 2005, 21:05
Hi!
Thanks for your information. It seems that I need to order some tools from them to try out if it can give some improvments.
For the moment I am using the products from Stanley. The cutting angle for the blade is modified with 5 degrees. But most important is to prepare the sole (is it called so...) so it is absolutely flat, they are useless as they were from the factory. They can be improved in a grinding maschine but doubtless the best way is to use ink and do it by hand in the old fashioned way if you know how to do it. The blades from Stanley could be better in durability, I sharpens 12 pcs of blades at the same time so I can have a new one for every strip without any delays when I am at the workbench planing strips.
Kindly,
Johannes
Thanks for your information. It seems that I need to order some tools from them to try out if it can give some improvments.
For the moment I am using the products from Stanley. The cutting angle for the blade is modified with 5 degrees. But most important is to prepare the sole (is it called so...) so it is absolutely flat, they are useless as they were from the factory. They can be improved in a grinding maschine but doubtless the best way is to use ink and do it by hand in the old fashioned way if you know how to do it. The blades from Stanley could be better in durability, I sharpens 12 pcs of blades at the same time so I can have a new one for every strip without any delays when I am at the workbench planing strips.
Kindly,
Johannes
#9
Gäst_CCarlin_*
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Posted 22 Sep 2005, 21:49
You'll find two huge improvements with the L/N planes over a Stanley.
One, the L/N is perfect right out of the box. The soles are flat, and everything is tuned properly and ready to go. The second is the quality of the blade is vastly superior to the Stanley blades. I usually sharpen the blade on my non-grooved block plane (the thick cut one) every 6 strips, and the blade on the grooved plane every 12 strips. I could go longer with both, but I like to keep things very sharp.
When I do sharpen, 90% of the time it is a quick touch up using a leather strop. Takes about a minute to sharpen and swap out the blade. I have a main bevel on my blades of around 32-35 degrees, and a small secondary bevel of about 5 degrees, so all I'm doing most of the time is touching up the secondary bevel.
(Hi Mike!)
One, the L/N is perfect right out of the box. The soles are flat, and everything is tuned properly and ready to go. The second is the quality of the blade is vastly superior to the Stanley blades. I usually sharpen the blade on my non-grooved block plane (the thick cut one) every 6 strips, and the blade on the grooved plane every 12 strips. I could go longer with both, but I like to keep things very sharp.
When I do sharpen, 90% of the time it is a quick touch up using a leather strop. Takes about a minute to sharpen and swap out the blade. I have a main bevel on my blades of around 32-35 degrees, and a small secondary bevel of about 5 degrees, so all I'm doing most of the time is touching up the secondary bevel.
(Hi Mike!)
#10
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Mats Öberg
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Posted 24 Sep 2005, 16:52
Om någon är intresserad av Lie Nielsens hyvlar så skicka ett IM om ni vill ha en när jag kommer hem igen. :D
"Wise men talk bacause they have something to say; Fools because they have to say something" - Plato
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#11
Gäst_Anders Johannesson_*
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Posted 05 Oct 2005, 21:42
Yesterday I recieved a scraper from Lie Nielssen. For information to you all, I just wants to say that they need som rework to be as flat on the surface as I want them to be. It seems to be okay in all other aspects so far. The delivery time was short by air mail so the company seems to be professional.
/Johannes
/Johannes
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Francis
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Posted 06 Oct 2005, 09:08
Anders...
Var beställde du scrapern..
Vad betalade du för den, vad kostade frakten.
Jag frågade en kille som hade en scraper ute på EBay, han ville ha $75 för frakten.
Litet dyrt tyckte jag (frågan är om inte decimalkommat föll bort).
Jag skickade dig ett mail igår, fick tillbaka det idag.
Är din E-postdaress aktuell?
/F
Var beställde du scrapern..
Vad betalade du för den, vad kostade frakten.
Jag frågade en kille som hade en scraper ute på EBay, han ville ha $75 för frakten.
Litet dyrt tyckte jag (frågan är om inte decimalkommat föll bort).
Jag skickade dig ett mail igår, fick tillbaka det idag.
Är din E-postdaress aktuell?
/F
#13
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rodwizard
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Posted 06 Oct 2005, 13:15
#14
Gäst_Anders Johannesson_*
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Posted 08 Oct 2005, 20:02
Frakten kostade 36 US dollar. Sedan kostade det drygt 500 SEK i tull, spedition och moms.
Beställde direkt från deras hemsida. gick på mindre än en vecka med flyg frakt express.
Sulan var planare än på andra köpegrejor, men inte helt perfekt. Lite jobb med tunn märkfärg och skavstål så blir det exakt så som det skall vara. Tog bara någon minut.
Däremot skulle man önska sig att stålet haft en skruvjustering, nu får man knacka in det i position.
Drog några tag över en stavlimmad skärbräda. Fenomenalt resultat. Kanske ett bra argument för den som tvekar ...
/Johannes
Beställde direkt från deras hemsida. gick på mindre än en vecka med flyg frakt express.
Sulan var planare än på andra köpegrejor, men inte helt perfekt. Lite jobb med tunn märkfärg och skavstål så blir det exakt så som det skall vara. Tog bara någon minut.
Däremot skulle man önska sig att stålet haft en skruvjustering, nu får man knacka in det i position.
Drog några tag över en stavlimmad skärbräda. Fenomenalt resultat. Kanske ett bra argument för den som tvekar ...
/Johannes
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